It’s time for a little comfort, and here is a sweet fix. Pound cakes are the pleasing plain-Janes of desserts: figurative no-nonsense confections that provide a welcome pick-me-up without wandering into sugary oblivion. In a world of bling and excess, these cakes are not to be underestimated. Their simplicity is their appeal, humbly playing it straight and ordinary, with no need to primp and accessorize.
A pound cake was traditionally constructed of a pound each of butter, sugar, eggs and flour (hence its name), which yielded an exceptionally large cake. Over time, the ingredients ratio has shifted and reduced according to preference, conveniently producing a single loaf or Bundt cake. Subtle tweaks and discreet flourishes are sometimes added, such as a dash of spice, a sprinkle of citrus zest, a shower of confectioners’ sugar or a drizzle of syrup. Adjustments and additions aside, in the end, the pound cake remains an unfailingly predictable and pleasing treat.
This recipe celebrates the end of the blood orange season. Any citrus is delicious in a pound cake, which is a natural canvas for the spark of citrus. Blood oranges are murkier and less bright than their navel brethren and add a deeper, fruity flavor to the cake. To match this depth, I swapped out some of the granulated sugar with light brown sugar and combined almond meal (flour) with all-purpose flour, yielding a denser, nuttier cake.
Blood Orange Pound Cake
Active time: 15 minutes
Total time: 1 hour and 15 minutes
Yield: Makes one loaf
Cake:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup almond meal
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
3 large eggs
1/4 cup sour cream
Zest of 2 blood oranges
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract
Syrup:
1/4 cup blood orange juice
1/4 cup sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a loaf pan and line the bottom with parchment.
Combine the flour, almond meal, baking powder and salt in a bowl and stir to blend.
In a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, mix the butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at time, mixing well after each addition. Add the sour cream, orange zest and vanilla and mix to combine. Add the flour mixture, and using a wooden spoon, mix to blend without overmixing.
Spoon the batter into the prepared loaf pan and smooth the top. Bake in the oven until a wooden skewer comes clean, about 1 hour.
While the cake is baking, heat the syrup ingredients over medium-low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
When the cake is ready, remove from the oven and transfer to a rack. Prick the top of the cake with a wooden skewer and brush with some of the syrup. Cool 10 minutes, then remove the cake from the pan. Brush the cake on all sides with the syrup. Cool completely.
Serve dusted with confectioners’ sugar or whipped cream.
Lynda Balslev is the co-author of “Almonds: Recipes, History, Culture” (Gibbs Smith, 2014). Contact her at TasteFood, c/o Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO 64106; or send email to tastefood@tastefoodblog.com; or visit the TasteFood blog at tastefoodblog.com.
